Ay dios mio! Where on earth do I start?
We made it to Zipolite a few days ago, after an agonizing and eventually laughable drive from Oaxaca to the coast.
We decided, after discussing prices with the owners of Hostel Mezkalito, to opt for the cheaper and quicker transportation to the beach. We rode in a van, along with six or seven other mexicanos, for seven hours on roads that were...somewhat sickening. The curves never stopped as we rounded bend after bend high in the mountains of Oaxaca state, holding on for dear life at some points when our driver barely tapped the brakes to skirt around a hairpin turn at around 45mph. Oy.
Exhausted and drowsy from the heat, we finally made it via collectivo to Zipolite. Our Lonely Planet guide had told us that we were in for a treat, and that we might find ourselves postponing departure from this particular stretch of sand for a while. The guide couldn´t have been more correct. Zipolite lies nestled in a little patch of civilization about twenty minutes south of Puerto Escondido. We checked into our hotel later that afternoon, after I´d satisfied my curiosity and awe at the thunderous and magnificent Pacific Ocean. Our cabaña is located in a little cove at the east end of the beach, with two huge boulders that stand guard like seaside sentinels at the entrance. We are sleeping, quite literally, in a tree house. Up two flights of rough stone stairs, our cabin is outfitted with only two tables, two chairs, a mosquito net and bed. I can´t describe how strangely familiar the smell of cedar wood and salty air was when we first ducked under the thatched roof. A thousand mixed memories of summer camp and still-damp swimsuits, beach side family vacations and the smell of warm coconut oil immediately flooded my mind and I instantly felt at home. We booked a week´s stay here, and received a two dollar a day discount for the commitment, so we´re essentially paying only fifteen US dollars a night for an enchanting little cabin... solomente thirty steps from the sea.
Zipolite itself is equally intoxicating. At this point in time, I can´t even recall how many days we´ve been here, since our activities have consisted of little else besides swimming, swinging in the many hammocks that line the beach, eating the BEST ceviche of our lives, sipping mojitos in the evening and flopping onto the bed out of pleasant exhaustion at the end of the day.
Everyone here is so kind, as well. The owners of our hotel, Lo Cósmisco, are two brothers with perpetual grins on their tanned and leathery faces. They are eager to engage in conversation with us and equally patient when we (or perhaps only I) stumble over my words, searching for the appropriate Spanish phrases.
Two days ago we met three folks from Cuernavaca, Lupita and her uncle Luis, and their friend Salvador, who have embraced us with kindness and hospitality that I have never experienced in the States. Yesterday they brought us to Mazunte, another beach about 6km from Zipolite, for an afternoon of choppy conversation and lots of swimming. Zipolite´s riptide is incredibly strong and it´s not advisable to go in deeper than waist-level, but Mazunte is much more tranquil and we spent the entire day lolling about in the water with our new friends.
I really have nothing more to report, other than that we are safe, sound, tan and happy. More to come as events unfold.... right now we´re just enjoying the laid back and laisse-faire pace of beach life. Love to all of you back home and we´ll see you soon!